Sunday, July 21, 2013

Vive la France!

After nearly a year living less than 3 hours away from France, we finally bought train tickets and headed south for a weeklong vacation in Paris and Burgundy. It was worth the wait!


Paris
We spent the first three days of our trip in Paris. It was Linnea's first visit to the city, and needless to say, it lived up to the hype! For Noah, it was a fond reunion after almost a decade. 



We stayed with our friends Matt and Beth at their beautiful
apartment in Montparnasse for our first two nights in Paris.
From their house it was a short walk to the Jardin Luxembourg
where we hatched our sightseeing agenda.


Le Métro!



We went out with  Matt and Beth (sadly not pictured)
to explore the hip Canal St. Martin neighborhood
Very hip indeed; we waited at this bar
for nearly two hours before we were
seated at the delicious Cambodian place
Matt recommended.























Inside a Jean DuBuffet sculpture at the 
Centre Pomipou, Paris's Modern and 
Contemporary art epicenter
The view from the Pompidou's roof
afforded Linnea her first glimpse of the
Eiffel Tower -- it does exist!



For our final night we stayed at the lavish Prince de Galles
Hotel off the Champs Elysées thanks to Sam and his generous
deployment of precious Starwood points!!


Our gorgeously restored 1920s room featuring inlaid wooden
furniture and original tile mosaics. 


The best part: a terrace with a view!


Feeling appropriately pampered and swanky, we
gussied and headed out for lunch at Le Carré des
Feuillants, a 2-star Michelin restaurant near the Louvre. 





We dined in the purple room with three other parties. All
VERY serious eaters. (We did our best to keep up.)


After lunch we walked/staggered across
the Jardin de Tuileries and headed for
the Notre Dame Cathedrale where we stumbled
on a beautiful hidden flower market.


So full and happy!

On the road to Beaune

The next day we picked up our rental car and
(after fighting our way out of Paris) hit the
Autoroute southeast to Burgundy.


Our first stop was Auxerre, where we
enjoyed some excellent ice cream and toilets





From there it was off to the scenic hillside village of Vézelay
(after a brief encounter with the Police Nationale...)


The view from Vézelay






The Cathedral atop Vézelay is a popular starting
point for pilgrimages to Santiago de Campostela...
monks in sandals abounded in the mostly sleepy village. 


The next day, after spending the night in Dijon, we headed
South through the C'ôte d'Or wine region to Beaune

The rolling vineyards were even more
beautiful than we could have imagined.
The perfect weather didn't hurt! 


Our destination was lunch in Beaune where we enjoyed an
unforgettable meal on the terrace of Restaurant l'Ecusson.


Some (paraphrased) highlights: lobster with fresh vegetables,
lemon basil sorbet topped with a nori chip. 
John Dory filet with fennel, Israeli couscous and
 squid ink reduction



Macaron with lemon custard and chocolate swizzle stick.
(Not pictured, our wines by the glass: a 2011 Meursault and
2007 Nuits-St. Georges. Wow.)

Exhausted and elated
























After wending our way back through the vineyards and several
 chateau and cave tastings, we happened upon a gem of a tasty room:
Moillard Grivot in Nuits-St. Georges. Overwhelming at first...


...but we learned a lot!


Departing with "gifts"

Heading east!
The next day we headed east from Dijon to the
foothills of the Jura Mountains.
(And made a few detours to stretch our legs on the way,
like this 15th-c. abbey.) 

For a picnic lunch we stopped in sleepy Ornans, the
"Little Venice of the Franch-Comté"

Upon reaching Besançon, our destination for the night, we headed
straight for the 17th-c. citadel overlooking the formerly
walled city. Luckily for us, there was a mini Renaissance
Faire going on.  OK! 

En garde!




Much to our initial confusion (that lasted way too long),
the citadel also serves as a zoo. This monkey and
Rod Stewart go to the same guy. 

The views from the citadel were stunning. Hold on, Noah! 


After checking into our hotel room in Besançon,
we headed out for an al fresco Sunday evening dinner
and drinks to enjoy the balmy weather.














The road back to Paris

Heading back through northern Burgundy, we stopped
at the beautiful Chateau de Tanlay for a guided tour.

From Tanlay, it was a short hop to Chablis, where we grabbed
a bottle to go and headed to the river for an impromptu melon,
white peach, and potato chip picnic. Who needs wine glasses? Not us.

Half of a bottle of wine and feeling fine. 

The next day it was back on the road to Paris.
With an hour to kill before returning the car,
we headed straight for a photo op.

Goodbye for now, France!!!

Tune in next time, devoted blog readers, for our post on adventures in Berlin, England, and Portugal!!


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